Backstreet Academy: Promoting Community Experiences in Asia

I’ve come across many social enterprises on my travels, but it’s rare that one impresses me quite as much as Backstreet Academy did on a recent visit to Luang Prabang in Laos.

WHAT IS BACKSTREET ACADEMY?

Backstreet Academy started out in Kathmandu, Nepal, and has since spread to almost 40 locations in ten different countries across Asia.

In each of these locations, staff are continuously sourcing new activities and workshops to add to their growing list of ‘backstreet experiences’, which enable tourists to get a taste of local community life while learning a traditional skill from their hosts and supporting their trade.

In Luang Prabang alone, there are over 50 different options, as diverse as Lao warrior experiences, fruit carving, fishing and learning Lao pop songs on guitar.

Since many of the hosts don’t speak English, Backstreet Academy employs local students to act as translators, or ‘facilitators’, throughout your experience. This helps them to support their studies financially, as well as giving them experience in the hospitality sector. Many of them work at least two part-time jobs in addition to their studies, but still have the energy and enthusiasm to provide entertaining commentary throughout a four-to-five-hour experience.

EXAMPLE BACKSTREET EXPERIENCES

Backstreet experiences are activities hosted by friendly locals who are masters in a particular craft or skill. In exchange for your financial support, and an opportunity to access a wider market for their products through tourism, they welcome you into their homes, pass on their knowledge and often send you away with a souvenir you helped create. I sampled five backstreet experiences, which you can read about in more detail below.

KNIFE MAKING – Basic Price US$29

The first of my Backstreet Experiences was Knife Making. My host Phan Keosoulinya has been a blacksmith for over 20 years and he’s now passing his skills down to his sons, who help out at his workshop.

The set up is little more than a few wooden stools and work benches outside his house, yet they create a wide range of tools from knives and machetes to spades and even spearguns for fishing (which we had a chance to shoot at a piece of papaya!).

You can choose the size of the blade you’d like to make, and there’s the option of paying extra for a wooden handle or cover. While I was there, they’d even had a request for a handle made from bone.

The family usually make items on request from villagers, but Backstreet Academy has helped them become known to a wider market. Considering the four hours of quality time you get to spend learning about the trade, in addition to taking home a beautifully crafted blade you helped to make yourself, this is a bargain.

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HMONG BAMBOO CROSSBOW CRAFTING – US$21

One of Backstreet Academy’s most recent additions, you can learn the craft of Hmong bamboo crossbow crafting from 85-year-old Chai Song. Although his eyesight is beginning to fade, it hasn’t affected his ability to produce high-quality bows and arrows. These were used traditionally for hunting, but today are more commonly produced for ceremonial games during Hmong new year.

His backyard is in an idyllic setting beside a stream and, if you’re lucky, you’ll get to meet his son, grandson and great grandson, who all live with him. It’s through Backstreet Academy’s programme that he hopes to make enough money to send the younger members of his family to school.

Through my facilitators, I learned that I was the first female he’d ever taught his craft to, despite him having taken it up over 70 years ago at the age of 11!

On arrival, you’re given the choice of making a Hmong crossbow or a bow and arrow. The crossbows are more unique, easier to shoot, and can be disassembled to fit into your luggage. At the end of your three-hour session, you can go up against your hosts and facilitator to see who’s best at shooting your bow at a cardboard target.

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RICE WINE MAKING – US$19.25

The process of making rice wine, or ‘lao hai’, is quite simple. First, sticky rice is mixed with crushed rice husk. After being washed three of four times with fresh water, it’s transferred to a bamboo basket, covered over and left to steam above a fire for about half an hour. The mixture is then flipped, given another 10 minutes to steam and transferred to a bowl, where it is cooled by stirring. Finally, a small clump of yeast is crumbled and mixed in, and the resulting product is left for a few days in a cool storage shed.

When it’s almost ready for drinking, the mixture is transferred to an earthen jar for three to four days. The longer it’s left, the sweeter it tastes.

Bamboo straws are used to pierce the banana leaf lid, and people drink from a communal jar.

Your host, Phengkeo Vanila, will let you try each step of the process, including hollowing out river reeds for straws and cutting traditional slits at the base to prevent them from clogging.

Lao hai is about 5% alcohol and tastes a bit like cider, though more bitter. It is traditionally drunk by Khmu hill tribes during new year celebrations, birthdays or other festivities.

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FEAR FACTOR FOOD TOUR – $US17

For the ultimate experience to impress your friends back home with, this food tour has you sampling dishes you never would have dreamt you’d try. Many of them, though, are staple food for locals in Lao – and some are even thought of as a delicacy!

In one evening, while visiting various street stalls and restaurants in the non-touristic parts of town, we made our way through the following:
– Grilled dog
– Leftover bits of goat with leathery skin still attached
– Congealed raw blood
– Colon cooked in dung
– Testicle soup
– Chickens’ feet
– Chicken hearts
– Intestines still stuffed with excrement
– Foetal duck egg

Had it not been for the adorable puppy that followed our chef towards the BBQ immediately after we’d ordered, the dog would have been quite enjoyable. The surprise winner from the evening, though, was the testicle soup – so good we kept going back for more!

By far the worst were the intestines and the raw blood, which even our hosts couldn’t handle.

Some of the dishes are incredibly chewy, which gives you a little too long to think about what you have in your mouth, so it’s a good idea to have a drink ready to help wash the food down. Be aware that Lao people drink Beer Lao on ice – and lots of it, so expect a really watered down version if that’s your chaser of choice.

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WOOD CARVING – US$22

Lon M is a master at wood carving. With over 30 years’ experience, he’s created works of art for temples, hotels, business men and tourists across town. A small display of some of his creations gives you an idea of what you can try making. Some of the most popular items are elephants, geckos, longboats and buddhas.

Even the smaller pieces can take a novice at least five hours to make, so it’s best to choose something simple and small if you’d like to stick around for the whole process. You’ll also make life easier for yourself if you use a softer type of wood.

I made an elephant. To begin with, I drew its basic shape onto a block of wood. Lon M then demonstrated the technique of gently chiseling away the unwanted portions, before handing over to me. We went back and forth like this for a full five hours. For the more intricate parts, he would do one side and I’d do the other. He’s also very good at correcting mistakes.

There’s the option to have your elephant free standing or on a base. Decide what you’d prefer in advance. If you have a base, you can add text, such as your name, a short message, or the date you were there.

These wood carvings are small, light and sturdy enough to carry in your backpack, so they make the perfect souvenir. If you’re not done in five hours, they can deliver the finished product to your hotel the next day.

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TIPS AND INFORMATION

💡Dress conservatively. It may be hot, but you’ll be more comfortable in long trousers. It shows cultural respect and, as you often have to sit on very low stools, you’ll find it easier to retain your modesty than if you wore a skirt or dress

💡Take water and perhaps a snack if you’re doing a long course. Most hosts provide water, but it’s better to be safe than sorry

💡Many of these workshops allow you to take your craft home. Think about weight, size and whether or not you’ll be permitted to carry it on an international flight

💡Extra activities that aren’t technically ‘Backstreet Experiences’ are also available on the website, so have a look through all of the options. You might find several activities you’d like to try

💡Give your camera to the facilitators while you take your class. They’re quite skilled photographers and you’ll come away with some great photos of you in action

💡Enjoy yourself! The level of participation is mainly up to you – unless a task is particularly dangerous. Get stuck in and try everything you’re offered, as it may be your only chance. Your hosts are very good at guiding you and correcting any mistakes

💡Tell your friends about it! If you know someone who’s heading to Asia, chances are they’ll pass through a city or region with Backstreet Academy experiences, so share this post and spread the word 😊