I hadn't planned to visit Pastoruri glacier during my time in Huaraz. I went because a guy from one of the tour agencies met me at the bus stop, disguised himself as staff from the hostel I wanted to stay at, and then took advantage of me not being able to think clearly after three days on buses! Despite the questionable techniques of my new … [Read more...]
Cycling from Baños to Puyo
Banos is a town you can easily fall in love with. It’s one of those quiet places, tucked into a valley surrounded by mountains and cascades, where you feel safe and relaxed. But there is also plenty to do there. One of the highlights is riding a bike and cycling from Banos to Puyo. WHERE TO RENT A BIKE It's easy to find a tour operator with … [Read more...]
Mama Negra Festival: a Surreal Experience
Mama Negra festival is a celebration of a legend. The city of Latacunga in Ecuador sits under the shadow of Cotopaxi Volcano. Cotopaxi is one of the biggest active volcanos in the world. It destroyed the town twice and, in 1742, it threatened to do so again. Fearing its imminent threat, the locals of Latacunga prayed to the Virgen de la Merced and … [Read more...]
Cotopaxi Volcano Climb: An Attempt to Summit
The Cotopaxi Volcano climb was one of the toughest physical challenges I've ever attempted. It's a gruelling continuous uphill slog in freezing conditions and on sometimes treacherous ground. While all I could think of was the pain I was in during the experience itself, the memories that lasted are of the incredible views once we'd broken through … [Read more...]
Visiting Quilotoa on a Day Trip from Latacunga
Take a Quilotoa day trip or join the 'Quilatoa Loop' hike, but whatever you do, don't miss Quilatoa off your Ecuador itinerary. WHY TAKE A QUILOTOA DAY TRIP? The views from the top of Quilotoa Crater are incredible. When we rounded the corner and came face to face with the shimmering water of Quilotoa Lake, it stopped us in our tracks. The … [Read more...]
Mindo: Canopy Adventures in the Cloudforest
Ecuador was the second country along my South America route and by the time I arrived in Mindo, I'd already been rapelling down Juan Curi waterfall and paragliding in San Gil, Colombia. You might think all of this adventure would have prepared me for zip lining, but when it came down to it, I was still petrified! MINDO CANOPY … [Read more...]
Is Quito Safe for Solo Travellers?
If you rock up into Ecuador's capital city having just travelled from Cali to Quito by bus, you will already appreciate that this part of the world doesn't have the best safety record. There are stories of muggings, hijackings and plenty of opportunistic crime, but I would argue that this shouldn't put you off travelling around Ecuador. Is Quito … [Read more...]
Lost City Trek
Grueling, relentless and uncomfortable. These are adjectives I'd use to describe the Lost City trek in Colombia's northernmost region. There's good reason that this ancient empire remained undiscovered until 1972, when treasure looters stumbled upon its corridor of stone steps. Still, without a challenge, there's no sense of achievement - and boy … [Read more...]
Paragliding in San Gil
There are two main ways to try paragliding in San Gil. As far as I could see, the main difference was the price. PARAGLIDING IN SAN GIL: THE OPTIONS OPTION ONE At the time of writing, you could pay $60,000 COP for a 20-minute flight in a place called Curiti, where frontal winds crash against the side of a mountain to create thermals that … [Read more...]
Rappelling Down Juan Curi Waterfall
San Gil is Colombia's prime destination for adventure sports, and one of its most unforgettable experiences is rappelling down Juan Curi waterfall. You can easily arrange a trip through most of the hostels and tour providers in town, although they tend to require minimum numbers, so if you're travelling alone it's best to book ahead. JUAN CURI … [Read more...]
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