With 2013 barely off the ground, a new blogger relay has taken the travel world by storm. The idea? To pick your best posts from the past year, depending on twelve predefined categories. When I was nominated by JdombsTravels to take part, it sounded like a great opportunity to reflect on everything I've been up to and to scrutinise my blog posts … [Read more...]
Salar de Uyuni Tour
Everyone says the Salar de Uyuni is an ‘other worldly’ experience. I won’t deny it. The blinding salt crystals forming hexagonal patterns as far as the eye can see in every direction are something else. But my trip to the Bolivian salt flats was unique for a few reasons, namely, bumping into one of the craziest people I’ve met on my journey so far, … [Read more...]
Inspired by the Wonderful Miners of Potosi
Potosi is the highest city in the world, at almost 4100 metres above sea level. It is also the richest source of silver the world has ever seen. But such riches came at a price. Estimates are that between 8 and 9 million people have lost their lives in the Potosi mines of Cerro Rico. The mining boom began after a llama herder was caught out after … [Read more...]
Stepping in Dinosaur Footprints in Sucre
Ok, so that title was a little misleading because you’re not allowed anywhere near them, but it’s still worth saving a few hours for the round trip to Parque Cretacio, just 5km out of Sucre, to see the world’s biggest collection of dinosaur footprints. The old claim was that there were 5000 of them on one chunk of almost vertical limestone, but … [Read more...]
Rurrenabaque Pampas Tour
I’ve already reported on the crazy jeep journey to and from Rurrenabaque – an adventure in itself – but what about the reason we put our bums through 33 hours of bumpy road? As Bolivia is the cheapest country in South America, it makes a lot of sense to visit the Amazon while you’re there. It’s relatively close to the famous Brazilian Pantanal … [Read more...]
Why You Should Get a Jeep to Rurrenabaque
As you read this post, you’re going to wonder why the hell I recommend taking the jeep to Rurrenabaque instead of the much more straightforward hour-long flight. It certainly wasn’t plain sailing. But that’s half the fun. Looking back, I have some great stories, and the need to keep spirits up for almost two days in a cramped van certainly brought … [Read more...]
A Lesson in Cocaine
Before I read Rusty Young's awesome book, Marching Powder, I had next to no knowledge about cocaine. Marching Powder is a fascinating insight into life inside Bolivia's most notorious prison - San Pedro - in La Paz, where prisoners have to purchase their own cells, and illegal cocaine production occurs on a daily basis. A few years ago, it was … [Read more...]
Cycling the Death Road – in a Thunderstorm
I almost wimped out of cycling the Death Road. Even before I got to La Paz, I was well aware of the 19 cyclist deaths since the road became a thrill-seeking tourist’s hot spot. Then I kept hearing stories about the accidents that seemed to occur on a daily basis. One girl was taken to hospital for a dislocated shoulder and another had to be winched … [Read more...]
Loki Hostel: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly
If you travel through South America for more than a couple of weeks, you’re likely to hear people raving about Loki Hostel. Those in Mancora, Cusco, Lima and La Paz have been established for some time, and a new one has just opened in Salta, Argentina. Along with Wild Rover, it’s one of the most notorious party hostel chains in South America, and I … [Read more...]
Getting Dressed up on the Floating Uros Islands
Lake Titicaca is the world’s largest high-altitude body of water. It reaches depths of 284 metres and covers 8500 square kilometres. From Puno, you can easily visit the floating Uros islands in half a day for just S/15 to S/30, but it really is more worthwhile combining them with the less touristy natural islands of Amantani and Taquile. If … [Read more...]