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In Search of the Andean Condor

November 24, 2012 by Arianwen Morris 13 Comments

The main reasons people flock to Arequipa in Peru are to hike in Colca Canyon and to visit the aptly named Condor Cross in the hope of spotting Andean condors – the largest birds in the western hemisphere.

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - white one from above

I’m the daughter of an avid bird watcher and, other than requests for updates on where I am and whether I’m safe, the most common question my dad has asked me all trip is ‘Have you seen a condor yet?’

Having returned from two nights in the town of Cabanaconde, I can now say that the answer to that question is a resounding ‘Yes!’. In fact, I saw 10, and they were swooping so close overhead, we could hear the whistle of the wind as it passed over their wings.

CONDOR CROSS

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - coming for us

The viewing point for the condors is known as Condor Cross. It’s just off the main road that links Cabanaconde with the town of Chivay (about 2.5 hours away) and eventually Arequipa (6 hours by public bus). From Cabanaconde, it only takes 20 minutes to drive to the look out point, but, at the time of writing, the buses left at the crazy hour of 6 am.

THUMBING A LIFT

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - the beast

We were incredibly lucky because we’d met a couple of English guys the night before in our hostel, Pachamama, who offered to give us a lift (they actually live 2 minutes away from me in London)! They’d rented a 4×4, which we referred to lovingly as ‘The Beast’ owing to its reinforced cage and multiple sirens, flashing lights and tools.

BEST TIME TO VISIT CONDOR CROSS

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - condor cross

The best time to see the condors is around 9 in the morning, although there are frequent sightings around 2 in the afternoon as well.

We met the boys at 7 am and made our way to the look-out point – picking up a couple of workers with spades on the way. Nick, our driver, actually forgot they were there. After speeding round a few corners, we looked back to see the two guys lying flat out in the truck, clinging on for their lives! Oops!

SOUVENIR SHOPPING

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - women selling souvenirs

The first to arrive at Condor Cross each morning are the local women in traditional dress, who sell various locally produced items. My friend Christina and I did a deal on two alpaca wool hats for S.16. That’s about £2 each – an even greater bargain considering they’re reversible, so I can choose between Inca patterns or llamas!

ANDEAN CONDOR SIGHTINGS

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - fly by

We were among the first tourists to arrive and we settled ourselves on a stone wall. Only moments later, two condors appeared on the horizon and headed straight for us, swooping low and circling overhead. It was almost as if they were showing off for our photos, although it was still difficult to zoom in and get them in the frame of the shot as they sped by.

CONDORS EVERYWHERE!

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - loads flying

As tourists piled in by the bus load, more condors appeared. At one time, there were 7 in the sky together…

CLOSE UPS

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - perched

Another perched itself on the cliff just below the biggest crowds…

CONDOR AEROBATICS

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - near collision

If you’re really lucky, you might get to see the Andean Condors exhibiting a range of interesting behaviours. These two looked as though they might collide.

SCENIC HIKE

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - cactus

Once we’d worn out our arms from holding our cameras steady, and our necks from craning backwards as the birds passed by, we took the path further along the canyon. Nick had been to the canyon a few times and told us that, usually, there’s a greater chance of seeing condors if you walk for 20 minutes or so away from the main viewing point.

A CHANCE TO GET TO KNOW THE LOCALS

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - Andean women

As luck would have it, Nick and his cousin Paris were heading back to Arequipa that day too, so we eagerly agreed to their offer of another lift, but not before we’d dropped off 2 other tourists, 6 local women and all their merchandise in Cabanaconde.

LLAMAS ON THE ROAD TO AREQUIPA

Andean condor Colca Canyon Condor Cross - llamas

On the long drive back to Arequipa, we played car games, stopping along the way to take pictures of wild llamas.

Be warned that this road is bumpy! If you suffer from travel sickness, take something for it. Back in Arequipa, why not check out the Santa Catalina Monastery?

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Comments

  1. About Delhi says

    November 26, 2012 at 1:01 pm

    Am I the only one or is there anyone out there who thinks llamas are the cutest creatures in the world?!

    P.S Shame on me, I had never heard of condors before, but you have some beautiful pictures.

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 26, 2012 at 6:10 pm

      Llamas, koalas and sloths. I want one of each!

      Reply
  2. Shaun says

    November 26, 2012 at 3:53 pm

    Can’t say I’m a bird watcher but I love nature and I’m sure this is a sight to behold. Great views of the canyon too!

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 26, 2012 at 6:11 pm

      Of all the animals, I usually find birds the most boring to watch, but it’s something else seeing the massive condors so close up with the valley backdrop :)

      Reply
  3. Uzo Dibia says

    November 26, 2012 at 11:32 pm

    Loved it. As I said before, your narratives are accessible, easy to follow, clear, and precise. I will continue to follow your blog and hope that your travails inspire me to travel more and write more.

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 27, 2012 at 3:41 pm

      Thanks! Very kind of you! You should definitely book yourself a longer trip. If you want any South America tips, I’d be happy to advise :)

      Reply
  4. Mike | Earthdrifter says

    December 3, 2013 at 3:41 am

    What scenery, and the alpacas are beautiful. I really can’t get over the condor photos though. I will more than likely try to get to Cabanaconde and Chiva.
    Mike | Earthdrifter recently posted..An Amazon Riverboat CruiseMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      December 4, 2013 at 1:41 pm

      That place was amazing. The condors were everywhere, and so close you could hear them swoop by overhead. The canyon is breathtaking regardless of the wildlife too.

      Reply
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