The Cotopaxi Volcano climb was one of the toughest physical challenges I’ve ever attempted. It’s a gruelling continuous uphill slog in freezing conditions and on sometimes treacherous ground. While all I could think of was the pain I was in during the experience itself, the memories that lasted are of the incredible views once we’d broken through the clouds and the sense of achievement that I felt from having got as far as I did.
COTOPAXI VOLCANO CLIMB: MY STORY
THURSDAY 10:00 AM
My new friend – a Swiss guy called Michel – and I sauntered apprehensively round the corner from our hostel to the tour office. We’d chosen to go with Tierra Zero, one of the cheapest in Latacunga, who offer a 2-day trek to the summit, all inclusive, for $160 per person.
We got kitted out in all the gear we’d need for the climb, which consisted of many layers of warm clothing (2 pairs of gloves, a balaclava, an extra fleece, an extra pair of super-sexy fleecy trousers), a backpack, some proper skier’s sunglasses, and ice climbing gear (crampons, heavy boots, an ice pick, a harness and some gaiters).
THURSDAY 11:00 AM
Our guide, Julian, met us in the office and we piled into a 4-wheel drive to begin the adventure. It took us 2 hours to reach the lower slopes of Cotopaxi. We stopped at a shop to buy drinks and snacks for the climb. It’s a good idea to use the bathroom whenever you have a chance, as you should be drinking plenty of water to combat the effects of the altitude. And, if you’ve taken anti-altitude sickness pills, you should be aware that one inconvenient side-effect is increased urinary volume.
THURSDAY 13:00 PM
We stopped briefly beside Lake Limpiopungo to admire the views. Cotopaxi was hidden behind a hail shower and there was nothing but mist in the direction of the volcano.
THURSDAY 13:20 PM
You begin the Cotopaxi Volcano climb the evening before the main event because the refugio is part way up the volcano. Our first experience of hiking with our gear was not a pleasant one. After parking the jeep, we put on the heavy boots, gripped our ice picks and began the long slog up to the refuge at 4800 metres.
The path is loose soil and with every step, we slipped half a step back. The effect of the altitude was already apparent and we slowed our pace so as not to exhaust ourselves before the real hike had even begun.
THURSDAY 14:00 PM
After a brief lunch of soup, bread, ham and cheese, we hauled our aching legs upstairs to a gym-hall-sized attic of tiny bunk beds. After struggling into three pairs of trousers, a marino wool sweater, two fleeces, a hat and two pairs of gloves, I clambered clumsily into my sleeping bag and tried to get some sleep. This wasn’t easy at altitude, in the middle of the afternoon, in freezing temperatures.
THURSDAY 18:00 PM
Julian dragged us out of bed and we tucked into a sizeable portion of chicken and pasta with big chunks of pepper. It was good. Michel and I had about 5 cups of herbal tea each, to warm us up, and then we were sent back to bed to try to get more rest. This time, I didn’t sleep at all. I lay there for 4 hours, shivering and thinking about what I was about to do.
FRIDAY 12:00 AM
Our Cotopaxi Volcano climb was about to begin. Julian showed us how to put our crampons on so we would know for later. We put on just about every other item of clothing, strapped our bags to our backs and set out through the door of the refuge into the dead of night.
Our initial focus was on how unbelievably cold it was. I could see my breath and the ground was blanketed in crisp, white snow that had fallen while we ‘slept’.
The path was lit only by the faint light of our head torches and the moon. If we dared to take our eyes off the footpath and look skyward, the stars were clear and bright in the night sky. It was beautiful.
For the first hour or so, it was similar terrain to the day before, except now that it was colder and our noses ran like cascades. Every single step was a huge effort, but I fell into the rhythm of digging my ice pick into the ground and taking two steps. I didn’t have a thought in my head except ‘ice pick, step, step…repeat’. It was going to be a fun 7 hours.
FRIDAY 1:30 AM
Finally, we reached the glacier. This was a mixed blessing. We would no longer slide back down the slope in the scree, but crampons were a new challenge. At this point, Julian tied us all together with the rope, I assume in case anyone slipped into a crevasse!
Walking in crampons became more difficult as the path narrowed further. At some points it was only a foot in width and steeper than a hell slide, with a sheer drop to one side. Occasionally we’d have to stride over a fissure.
FRIDAY 2:30 AM
By this point I was close to giving in. Every muscle ached and I was low on energy. We stopped for a rest and I asked Julian if he could please pass me the Gatorade from my backpack. He misheard me three times. I shouted ‘Mi bebida’ and indicated to the side pocket, and he berated me for not saying ‘Please’! Tensions were beginning to fray.
My drink had reached the consistency of a slush puppy and I had to poke a plug of ice inside the bottle to allow some of the liquid to flow out.
FRIDAY 4:00 AM
I was really feeling the pain by this point. I’d considered turning back a few times, but I knew this would prevent Michel from reaching the summit, and he was still battling on like a soldier. I’d come to realise I was definitely the weakest of the bunch.
The landscape was starting to change too. In place of winding paths through great expanses of smooth ice shelves, there were hanging glaciers, tunnels and stalactites. I bashed my head on them a few times, sending crystal spears tumbling down the slopes.
FRIDAY 4:30 AM
Sometimes, we had to sit down and lower ourselves into dark holes, or use our ice picks to support our weight as we clambered back out of a fissure. When the path felt more dangerous, the natural instinct of Michel and I was to slow down and take care with every step. Unfortunately, Julian didn’t want us hanging around the unstable sections any longer than we needed to, so he would yell at us ‘Keep moving! We can’t stop here! You’ll be fine! Trust your feet. Faster! Faster!’
He had seemed like such an easygoing chap when we met him in the office. Now I felt like I was at boot camp for the marines.
FRIDAY 6:00 AM
Finally, the sun began to rise. The morning cast red and purple light on the peaks of nearby mountains that pierced a bed of clouds, which were now some distance below us. We paused to admire the view and I pulled off my two pairs of gloves for just enough time to take a few photos before the frostbite threatened to take my fingers.
The ice formations around us looked incredible as they reflected the sun’s rays. I felt a new surge of strength. I thought I might even make it to the summit.
FRIDAY 7:00 AM
I was exhausted to the point of tears. Julian assured us it was less than an hour to the top, but also admitted this was the most difficult section of all. I glanced at the almost vertical path and felt the last drops of energy drain from my body.
We’d reached 5730 metres. I could see the summit just 150 metres higher. but I couldn’t go on. My muscles had given up. Out Cotopaxi Volcano climb was over.
I needed enough strength to get me back down to the refuge. Adding to the weight in my backpack was the heavy burden of guilt I had to carry, knowing that Michel wouldn’t get to see the crater because we all had to stick together. My spirits were dashed and I wanted to curl up in a ball and cry.
FRIDAY 8:00 AM
Coming back down, I was so tired, I tripped over my own foot and almost plunged head-first off the side of the volcano. Julian barked from behind ‘Don’t look at the scenery. Watch where you’re going!’ As if I hadn’t been taking the greatest care to avoid an icy death. At least this proved one thing. I had made the right decision turning back.
FRIDAY 9:00 AM
Finally, we made it back to the refuge, where I collapsed in the middle of the floor. I slept 22 of the next 24 hours.
IS THE COTOPAXI VOLCANO CLIMB WORTH THE EFFORT?
The Cotopaxi Volcano climb is notoriously difficult. The day before I tried it, 4 out of 24 people reached the summit. You should only attempt the climb if you are healthy, in good shape, used to sports that require strong leg muscles, and well adjusted to the altitude. I had prepared with some local hiking, including a Quilotoa day trip, but in hindsight the Loop trek would have been a better idea.
Consider whether your hiking buddies are up to it, as you will have to turn back if they can’t make it. Even if you think you’re in the best shape ever, there’s no predicting the effect altitude will have, so don’t beat yourself up if you don’t make the summit. Appreciate the stunning views and feel privileged to have set foot on Cotopaxi Volcano at all.
If you can time your Cotopaxi volcano climb to coincide with the Mama Negra Festival in Latacunga, you’re onto a win win. It’s probably best you get the hike out of the way first though, as a huge street party is not the best way to condition yourself.
Don’t feel so bad Ari. I met several people last year who also didn’t make it to the top. It’s not easy and I didn’t even give it a second thought to climb. Good on ya for giving it a go. The views you saw were spectacular and I am sure that you are happy that you tried. Not many of us can say that much :)
Yeah. I’m so glad I tried. It was a really unique experience and the views were incredible. I’m just glad it’s over to be honest! :)
This honestly sounds like my nightmare. You should me immensely proud that you went as far as you did! I am sure that you would have had a huge sense of accomplishment on making it to the very peak, but the sights you did see and everything you did achieve are really impressive. This is one thing I don’t think I could every do, not even a little bit, so you still look pretty super in my book!
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Thanks! You make me feel better. I was thinking of climbing a volcano in Chile too, but I crossed that one off the list!
But you ARE Superwoman Ari!!
Sounds like a really difficult trip, and it sounds like you did really well. Nice work – and I LOVE you photo of the sun rising over the mountains.
xx
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It was so beautiful. I wish I’d had more chance to take pictures, but I was already slowing the group down and it took a long time to take all the gloves off!
Wow, this looks absolutely incredible Ari! Well done on making it as far as you did, that’s amazing and your photos are gorgeous. You made it a million miles further than most people ever would so you’re superwoman for that!
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Loving all you people telling me I actually am superwoman! Worried it might go to my head :)
Good life lesson and well described report!
Dont forget toward the peak to be considerate and not to step over people around you.
Getting out of the comfort zone does bring you to amazing places, doesn’t it?!
Rest and come back to try it again!
I had the same experience of you and Michel on my first climb of Cotopaxi, but afterwards I went back to the mountain and had some great summit morning celebration.
Next weekend I’m going to climb it again. Friends, it is definitely a Beautiful Volcano!
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I don’t think I’ll be trying it again! Couldn’t put myself through that twice! Well done on making it on your second go though!
Fantastic pictures, wow!
A great read, I like how you explain what you went through. How long had you been in Ecuador when you attempted it? I have the feeling altitude was your major challenge right? At what altitude do you get off the car and begin walking?
Congrats on what you achieved! I plan on trekking Orizaba in February, with a similar altitude to Cotopaxi. I’m by the ocean now, and getting adjusted to altitude will be my most difficult challenge as well…
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I’d been in Ecuador a few weeks. I’d been at altitude for about a week and done some hiking, but not loads. Yeah, altitude was the problem. I just felt exhausted. Don’t think it helped that I had no ice climbing experience either – it was pretty scary at times! I’m not sure what altitude the car park was but it took an hour from the car to the refuge, which was at 4800 metres. Good luck with your trek. I’d love to hear how you get on!!
I had no idea that it was so beautiful up there. I’s another world. WOW! You definitely did very well. I’m also pretty sure that it’s not the lack of physical conditioning that held you back. 4,000 meters and I get real nauseous. Up there, forget it. It would be too painful. That altitude is not in our blueprint. You got a couple of stunning photos! Congrats on a great achievement!
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Thanks! It really is stunning. Even though it was a painful experience, I’m glad I got to see those views.
when I went there, I didn’t even know you could climb all the way to the top; I was NOT in shape then to even attempt it; since then, I’ve gotten much better and will definitely think about it when I get back to Ecuador : because you made me want to try, because, in spite of you not finishing, you made it! you tried your best, you went higher than you thought possible, you lived a wonderful experience you’ll remember forever and the views are just splendid!
Cheers to that! More adventures to come!
Take care,
Jul’
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Thanks! I agree. It doesn’t really matter that I didn’t make it all the way. It was an amazing experience. Definitely give it a go if you get the chance again!
I really enjoyed reading your post!
I had the EXACT same experience when attempting Cotopaxi a few months ago!
I just re-read my travel diary and would love to be able to send it to you as you pin pointed all my feelings during the climb:
The determination to reach the top but then feeling your legs can not possibly take you any further no matter how much you desire it, Right down to the frozen Gatorade detail!
I was also taken by a bad spell of altitude sickness and had to turn back just before reaching 5800. SO so close, and I felt so embarrassed facing the two guys I climbed with (one of them HATES me, fair enough)
Still an amazing experience but I think we need to tackle lower or not as technical mountains/volcanoes first.
I will re-attempt Cotopaxi when I’m in better shape and I WILL see the crater for myself!
Sorry to hear that you didn’t make it either. It’s good to hear from someone who can sympathise with the feelings I had that day though. Perhaps we should both reattempt it together some day!
As an avid climber who understands the work it takes physically and emotionally to summit peaks like this, I feel bad for the travelers who come prepared to tackle these tasks and had their once in a lifetime opportunity ruined by someone so clueless and ill informed. Cotopaxi is a “technically” easy climb meaning that it requires no real technical skills to be summited but to anybody reading this please understand that climbing mountains is not easy especially at altitude. Kilimanjaro is not a day hike, and Cotopaxi taller than Kili with an ice ax and crampons. How upsetting.
I think most travellers realise it’s a huge challenge. Our guide was training for Everest and certainly knew a lot about mountaineering. But at the end of the day, it’s still a tough climb, and perhaps they should put more focus on acclimatising. I’m not sure what they could really do differently, as you spend the night in a shelter below the glacier. There’s no safe place to rest higher up, so you have to do it all before sunrise. I think it’s great that travellers with little experience have the opportunity to give it a go, as long as they have realistic expectations.
Hi, after reading your blog and seeing the pictures on Cotopaxi my girlfriend and I are determined to give it a go. It sounds incredibly tough but what an achievement to get so far given the altitude. Were planning on being in Ecuador towards the end of next month so fingers crossed!! Do you know if the groups are always a ratio of 1:2 guide: customer?
Hi! I’m glad I inspired you! I hope you make it to the top. It’s so beautiful. I think the groups vary in size. We were the only two who booked with that tour company that day. You could always shop around when you reach Cotopaxi and find out which operators offer the best service for you. We booked our tour the day before, and I don’t think you usually need to book in advance too much. Having said that, you should arrive in the Latacunga area a few days before you hike so you can acclimatise to the altitude, so you could book the tour as soon as you get there. Good luck! I’d love to hear how you get on!
Hi Arianwen,
We just managed to summit Cotopaxi. Can’t believe it!! After hearing of how tough it is we opted to do a 2 day acclimatisation hike up neighbouring Iliniza Norte (5126m) staying in the refuge over night at 4750m certainly helped. Fortunately we moved our Cotopaxi attempt forward after being advised by Francisco from Tierra Zero that for acclimatisation reasons it’s better to leave as smaller gap as possible. Had we not have done the weather would have stopped the show as it took a turn for the worse after getting back. We summited from the carpark as the refuge was having building work done and made it to the top by about 6:15. For the last 2/3 hours we felt like quitting but somehow kept going. Without doubt this is the hardest hike either of have done by a long way. Coming back down now the sun was up treated you to the most beautiful views.
I Thankyou again for your blog as without reading it we certainly wouldn’t have been as well prepared. Check out our blog for more on Cotopaxi and our adventure!!
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Oh wow! I’m so glad you made it! And a little jealous! I’m really glad my post helped you prepare. I’m going to read your post now!
Hi there! I just climbed 3300 stairs with 16 kg bakcpack for training before Cotopaxi climb, But would you have some tips for conditioning?? How was your training or how would you train for this peak?
best regards
Henry
Wow! That’s certainly a good start! It sounds as though you’re fit enough. It’s just a case of whether you are ok with altitude. My advice would be to arrive in the area at least a few days before your trek and to do some other hiking. A lot of people do the Quilotoa Loop, which gets them used to the altitude and is a beautiful hike in itself. Don’t miss Quilotoa Crater. Good luck!
Hi Arianwen,
it sounds like we had a very similar experience to yours last week. There were three of us attempting the climb, knowing that with the lack of acclimatization we might not make it. Our guides were Ñato and Julian (maybe the same one?). Ñato was amazing, he kept asking whether the pace was alright, and was very friendly and supportive when one of us decided to turn back. The two of us left kept going with Julian, who was saying things like “on the mountain we’re a team, we’ll go your pace, it’s ok if you want to turn back”. My boyfriend had taken a paracetamol against his altitude sickness (following the advice of a doctor). Julian apparently didn’t like that, but instead of communicating that to us in a friendly way he started yelling and talking to the other guides in Spanish, fully aware that my Spanish wasn’t great and my boyfriend’s even worse. My boyfriend’s altitude sickness got worse on the way up, so we decided to turn back too (at around 5,400 m). At that point Julian it was incredibly pissed with us (for to us unkown reasons). He also kept gossiping about us in Spanish with other guides/people that we passed on the way. My boyfriend’s altitude sickness got close to cerebral oedema, he was staggering and had a hard time even going down. When we reached the base of the glacier, we got rid of the rope and crampons. My powers were fading quickly, and when Julian and my boyfriend started walking downhill I was falling further and further behind. When my boyfriend (in his confused state) realized this he told Julian to stop and wait for me. Julian just said no and kept walking. My boyfriend waited for me anyways, and we managed the rest of the walk down (maybe another 20 mins) alone. I just can’t believe that Julian walked out on us like that, with both of us clearly struggling, on a mountain at 4,800 m altitude, at 5:30 in the morning with daylight just starting to come up.
I didn’t care so much about not making it to the top – as you phrased it nicely, I’m also not superwoman, and I was happy that I tried. There were a few other things that didn’t go smoothly (they refused to give us helmets, the tent they had given us wasn’t waterproof and it was raining, the sleeping bags were wet, thin, and gross), they kept talking in Spanish even though we didn’t speak much, …), but I would have been able to overlook all that, if he hadn’t walked out on us like that (without ever giving any reason, he didn’t speak to us for the rest of the trip). It was completely unprofessional, rude, and outright dangerous. We paid him a lot of money to guide us on the mountain and he completely failed to act towards this responsibility. Do you have a photo of him and/or his last name? I would like to make some inquiries and definitely put a posting on tripadvisor. He should not be allowed to guide people in dangerous places like this one if he’s going to act completely irrationally and unprofessionally.
Cheers,
Kathi
Hi Kathi,
I’m sorry to hear about your experience. While I can’t say for sure, I think it’s highly likely you had the same guide. Did you book with Tierra Zero in Latacunga? Did he mention training for Everest?
I had no problems with the company (we had all the equipment we needed), but, as you can see from my post, I thought Julian could have been more sympathetic to less experienced climbers than himself.
I didn’t mention it in my post, but he did the same thing to us on the way down. He waited until we’d gotten over the really treacherous ice crevasses (thank God!), but once we reached the scree, he bolted for he refuge and left us to make our own way down. We were by ourselves for at least half an hour picking our way down the steep slope while suffering from exhaustion and some degree of altitude sickness. We both slipped and fell a couple of times. He could probably see us from below and I’m sure he’d have come rescued us if we’d had any problems, but that’s not really the point!
I can completely relate to your pain! This was physcially and mentally the hardest thing I have ever done in my life.
Oh no! Did you make it to the top? I sometimes think about trying again, but then I realise that would be crazy ;)
Hi Ari!
Your post is great! It also inspired me to go!
I haven’t had any snow climbing experience. Do I really need to have experience before Cotopaxi or the guide company can pretty much help me summit my first glacier? I am physically fit and long distance hike 100+ miles multiple trips already, just never hiked a glacier.
Also another question is how many days is good for visit Quito plus Cotopaxi? We probably go there mainly for the climb and some city/culture explore of Quito…
Thanks so much!! you post is amazing!!
Ying
Thanks Ying! I didn’t have any snow climbing experience at all. I was reasonably fit from marathon running, but not particularly used to the altitude, which is what broke me in the end! I’d say that most people who attempt Cotopaxi are not experienced climbers or even particularly regular hikers. A lot of people don’t make the summit, but to increase your chances as much as possible you should do some acclimatisation beforehand. The Quilotoa Loop is a popular way to get used to the altitude. The Cotopaxi guides tend to be very experienced and can loan you the equipment you need and show you how to use it. Since the Cotopaxi climb is an overnight trip, and you’d probably want a night either side somewhere nearby like Latacunga, plus perhaps four days for acclimatisation hiking in the area and a couple of days in Quito, you’d be looking at a week and a half all together minimum. I spent a day sightseeing in Quito and a day at the Mitad del Mundo. Both were really worthwhile. If you can extend your stay in Ecuador, there are plenty of other great places worthy of a look, such as Mindo (not too far from Quito) and Banos (quite a bit south of Cotopaxi but great for post hiking thermal bathing!). For a completely different scene, there are a couple of party towns on the coast, and if you like wildlife, you’ll probably never be closer to the Galapagos Islands (although you need at least a week to do them justice). There’s good whale watching from Puerto Lopez too, if you go at the right time of year. Have an amazing trip! I’d love to hear how you get on!
Thank you so much Ari! We just booked our flight (what a deal… for November, Toronto to Quito two people for 1100 USD!) ! I don’t think we will have issue with the elevation because we will do acclimatisation hikes for two days near by like the Quilotoa Loop and Latacunga you mentioned!!! I hiked Colorado and Cuzco in Peru before no issue with high elevation… I think I should be ok.. We have been to Galapogas Islands for 7 days cruise island hop, loved it, definitely a trip of a life time and so will Cotopaxi!!! Thanks for all the wonderful recommendations! I will let you know how everything goes!
Hi Ying, I’m so glad you’re making this dream a reality! That’s fantastic that you got such a good flight deal too. I would really love to hear how you get on. It’s a tough hike, but the views are spectacular.
Hey Ari,
Going to Qutio in late next week with my friend and my sister. She lives in Cali, CO so we’ll be busing in from there. Hopefully we don’t have a problem acclimating to altitude because we have a short trip. I’m hoping that being in high elevation for a while before hand (albeit not as high as Cotopaxi) will help us. Thanks for this fantastic report. My sister had told me she might not do any big treks with us because she didn’t slow us down or anything and I told her that wouldn’t happen but after reading this it might actually be a factor of making it to the top or not!
Can’t wait to try for myself!
Pat
Good luck Pat! Yes, it’s a challenging one, so if you’re not really fit and acclimatised you stand a much lower chance of making it. It’s still an incredible experience even if you don’t reach the top, so I wouldn’t put anyone of giving it a try, as long as they’re aware that turning back might cause others to have to turn back too. I wonder if there’s an option to hire more guides. Obviously it would cost more, but if you’re concerned one is more likely to turn back than another, this would be a way to ensure the other can continue. Have an amazing time.
This was a great read! I’m headed to Ecuador in June and might attempt to climb it! I’m curious, did you have most of your gear (layers of clothing, gloves, balaclava, ice ax, etc. with you or did your trekking company provide it?
Hi Vivek! You should definitely give it a go. It’s a bit challenging, but the scenery is incredible. I had my own walking boots, but the trekking company provided the rest. It gets really cold up there, so they give you gloves and thermal clothing, a thick jacket, crampons for the ice, and ice pick, etc. Basically, anything you don’t have you can borrow/rent (depending on how the company you go with operates). They want to make sure you’re properly equipped. Have a great time and let me know how it goes!!
Hey there, I am considering doing this climb in 2 days time. The summit was closed off for about 1.5 years and recently opened again!
Mind if I ask, what does your small daypack contain? Wondering how big it should be. And for the other equipment like ice pick, crampons etc, how do you bring it up from the carpark to the refuge, and from the refuge to the place where you put them on?
Hi Owen. Good luck with the trek! I hired all of the equipment from the outfitters I trekked with. We carried all of the ice gear in our backpacks. When you’re on the mountain, it’s really cold so you need to wear most of your clothes and use most of your equipment, but there needs to be space in your bag for a lot of layers when you’re not using them. You have to carry a few bottles of water too. As this trek was over 5 years ago for me, I don’t remember the capacity of the bag I used. You’d probably be best off asking when you’re there, and if the bag you normally use isn’t suitable, they will have something you can rent or borrow.