Have you ever seen someone’s photos from their trip to Brazil and wondered what those amazingly colourful steps were in Rio? I know I did a few years ago. That was before they were made yet more famous by Snoop Dogg and Pharrell in the video for their hit song ‘Beautiful’.
Believe it or not, this is not a still from said video
Lapa steps is lazy English speak for the ‘Escadlaria Selaron’ – so called because they were designed and constructed by Chilean artist Jorge Selaron, who, it turned out, had been found dead, just one week before I arrived in Rio, on the steps of his creation with burn marks on his body.
The circumstances of his death remain unknown. I heard rumours he’d committed suicide, while others said it was murder. There was also talk that the police had been investigating death threats. To this day, it seems the mystery has not been resolved.
Selaron had been a resident of one of the apartments on the steps and, in 1990, he decided to renovate them as his ‘tribute to the Brazilian people’. He funded his work by selling paintings and collecting over 2000 tiles – mostly in red, green and yellow (the colours of the national flag) – from scrap heaps and the streets of Rio. In later years, tiles donated from more than 60 countries around the world were incorporated. There is even one depicting the artist himself sitting on his masterpiece looking rather pleased with his handlebar moustache and worker’s tan.
Although some of his neighbours originally scorned him for the project, the Lapa steps have come to be an iconic landmark for Rio and attract hundreds of tourists every day. When he was still alive, Selaron could often be spotted working hard on his project or mingling with street party goers in the evening.
I spent ages searching for something representative of home, finally spotting this London phone box.
I also found a touch of Paris:
And a colourful message of peace from Israel, with what looks like kebab juice dribbling over it:
But I think this one has to be my favourite for its sheer randomness…
Apparently Selaron viewed his project as never complete and was quoted as having said ‘This crazy and unique dream will only end on the day of my death’. It’s a dream that lasted over 20 years and that will undoubtedly live on in the people of Brazil.
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Where to stay in Rio
I tried out a few hostels in Rio and my favourite, by a long shot, was Books Hostel in Lapa. In fact, it was one of my favourite hostels in South America. I went back to it twice after visiting other parts of Brazil, and I visited it in the evenings when I made the mistake of trying out a hostel near Copacabana Beach for a few nights. The guy who runs is – Felipe – is awesome, and there is a sense of homeliness to it that makes almost every backpacker extend their stay. Decorated with quirky graffiti murals and left-behind shoes, and with a small bar serving cachaca and beers every evening, it’s the perfect place to socialise with new friends before checking out the famous street parties of Lapa.
Loved the steps when we went years ago. I was lucky enough to have seen him working on the steps. He was so passionate about what he was doing. A very inspirational man!
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I’m jealous you got to see him in action! I imagine that was part of the draw – watching him in the midst of creating them.
I had no idea he had died! We were there a couple of years ago and had a good old chin wag with him. I’m sure the fantastic blast of colour and craziness that is those steps will last a very long time…
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Yes, I’m sure he won’t be forgotten. I wish I could have spoken to him about his life and the steps – him being Chilean, it would have been a good chance to practice my Spanish again too.
That’s a really cool art project… what a crazy story about the death of the artist *shivers*
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I know. I’m glad it didn’t happen when I was actually there. I spent so long hanging out there I might have been implicated!
Thanks for the post. Yes, I was wondering about those steps, but have never researched. Great story! Sorry for Jorge Selaron :(
You do look beautiful. Are you sure it is not a still from the video?
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Haha, have you seen the video? I don’t think I’m Snoop Dogg’s type, but maybe he’ll see this and invite me to be in his next one…
In Rio, we stayed in Santa Teresa, and I really regret that we didn’t get to check out the Selaron Stairs. But I guess I can add that to the thousands of other reasons I want to go back to Rio!
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Yeah, that’s pretty close. I’m surprised you missed it. I was staying in Lapa for most of my time there and I loved the area, despite it being a little dodgy. I think you should go back :)
See pictures of the steps before but never knew what they were called.
I hope Selaron rocked those shades on more than one occasion!
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I think he rocked the shades, the shorts and the facial hair whenever he was working on the steps!
What an awesome set of steps! It’s making me wonder why all steps aren’t artistically decorated. They all seem pretty boring now.
I agree. I might start tiling the one by our front door :)
Couldn’t agree more – the steps are great and the guy who devoted his life to them is definitely a character. i love the fact people started sending him tiles to put up to help him.
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Yeah, me too! I wish I’d known about it when he was still alive so that perhaps something of mine could have been incorporated.
Hey
I actually met Jorge Selaron the evening before he died. We were on a city tour so we were lucky enough to go into his studio and buy a postcard and get our pictures with him. It was only a few days later that i heard he had died. So do you know how he died?
You must’ve been in Rio at a very similar time to me. That must be such a weird feeling to have met him on the eve of his death. As far as I know, they haven’t found out what happened. It sounded very suspicious to me though.
I had the blessed opportunity not only to visit Escadaria Selaron in Lapa, but to meet Mr. Selaron on the steps (he was working) and also to go into his home. He had a very eccentric personality and was kind enough to take photos with us. I remember in one photo, he stuck his tongue out, because he was just so silly. Funny enough, there was a group behind us, and apparently, he didn’t like them enough to let them come into his home, lol! Also, he signed the tiles that you could buy in his home. I still have that tile. RIP Señor Selaron! I heard that they didn’t know whether it was a suicide or a murder. I pray that he is at peace, because it’s a tragedy either way.
That sounds like a fantastic experience! I like how he was selective about which groups he invited in. I’m jealous you had the chance to meet him. He sounded like such an interesting character. Definitely a tragedy.
So sad that the artist died. When I went to Rio, he was still alive and sitting on the steps like he always does apparently. It was a never ending project of his, so he truly lived out his dream. Aside from this, I stay in Books hostel as well and loved it!!!! I will definitely go back there when I go back to Rio.
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It’s great that you got to meet him. And good choice staying at Books! If you ever go back to Brazil, they’ve opened a second hostel out of Rio called Books Rehab. I want to go back and check that one out too!