Dona Marta favela sits on an impossibly steep hill in the district of Botafogo in Rio. With just 8000 residents, it’s a wee baby in comparison to some of it’s more well-known sister favelas such as Rocinha. So, what makes it special?
Two words: Michael Jackson.
The singer caused controversy when he recorded the video to his single ‘They don’t really care about us’ among local residents at the top of the hill. He was accused of exploiting the poor by local officials who were concerned that images of poverty would affect tourism to Rio. At the same time, others argued that the exposure would act to highlight the problems that were being faced.
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There are rumours that Michael Jackson negotiated with drug dealers to get permission to film in the favela. This was perhaps not sending out the best message, but just over a decade later, there have been a lot of positive changes. In 2008, control of the favela passed to Rio’s first Pacifying Police Unit, and a cable car has also been constructed, so that people can avoid struggling up the tight alleyways over hundreds of steps to reach the higher levels.
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But, is it safe to visit?
Tourism has taken off in Dona Marta favela. You can now take tours of the streets with approved tour guides, or ride the cable car over the rooftops, to glimpse views of everyday life from relative safety.
I turned up one morning with my Dutch friend Amber. We inquired about the guided tour first, but it sounded pretty pricey, so we asked around and people told us it was common for tourists to wander through the favela on their own.
‘Use your cameras,’ one man said. ‘It’s a safe area now. There are locals appointed to help you find your way. You won’t find any problems.’
Why wouldn’t we believe him? They even had a tourist map printed on shiny paper to show you the recommended routes, how to find your way on and off the cable car, and where MJ filmed his music video.
It took about 5 minutes for me to feel uneasy. First of all, the cable car was out of service. We crept up the main street, which was surprisingly colourful, and I decided to test the theory that it was safe to whip out a camera in public view of the residents. Two subtle shots later, I was being eyed up by a very questionable toothless character whose ragged shorts hung loosely from his bony frame.
We pushed on, exuding an air of confidence we didn’t feel deep down, and stopped to talk to a friendly guy who owned the favela barber’s shop.
I watched a man and his child play with a stray cat in the street. I was beginning to relax when the guy who clearly wanted my Canon rounded the corner brandishing a pneumatic drill!
Any sensible person would probably have left at that moment, but for some reason, we decided that to push on, in blistering heat, up one of the steepest hillsides in Rio, in the middle of a potentially dangerous district would be a better idea.
A couple of blocks later, we hit what seemed to be a dead end. The only exit routes leading up were so narrow it was hard to tell if they were alleyways or simply steps to people’s private residences.
A local guy noticed us – hardly surprising since we were two pale-skinned girls, one with red hair, the other blonde, and both over 5″10′ – and offered to lead us up to the famous MJ location. Trusting him implicitly, we followed him up increasingly derelict passages, sometimes squeezing between crumbling buildings or pushing past electricity hubs overloaded with illegal wires.
It was only when the guy took a phone call that Amber and I got the chance to discuss our shared opinion – that, while it would be great to believe that this guy was being the model citizen showing us his neighbourhood out of the goodness of his heart, it was also conceivable that he might rob us and cut our bodies to little pieces.
This was the moment we started to question if this was really a good idea…
We called to him while he was still chatting away and told him the climb was too much for us in this heat, before rushing back down in a mild panic as we tried to remember which of the hundreds of seemingly random paths led back to the main street.
I do believe that the situation is improving significantly in many of the Rio favelas. They’re much safer than they used to be, but my advice is that it’s always better to be safe than sorry – especially when you’re new to an area. If you decide to look around a Rio favela, make sure you do your research on its safety, take precautions, and perhaps splash out a little on this occasion and get yourself a proper tour guide.
Or you could skip all this silliness completely and just chill out on Ipanema beach watching the sunset, as we did later that same day…
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Where to stay in Rio
I tried out a few hostels in Rio and my favourite, by a long shot, was Books Hostel in Lapa. In fact, it was one of my favourite hostels in South America. I went back to it twice after visiting other parts of Brazil, and I visited it in the evenings when I made the mistake of trying out a hostel near Copacabana Beach for a few nights. The guy who runs is – Felipe – is awesome, and there is a sense of homeliness to it that makes almost every backpacker extend their stay. Decorated with quirky graffiti murals and left-behind shoes, and with a small bar serving cachaca and beers every evening, it’s the perfect place to socialise with new friends before checking out the famous street parties of Lapa.
The situation really depends on the favela. I never once felt in danger in the favela I volunteered in but I think it was due to the fact that it wasn’t a fighting ground between rival cartels and they were pretty used to gringos there. On the other hand, my friends volunteered in Vila Kennedy which was pretty notorious at the time – a cartel had shot down a police helicopter. So sorry to hear about your bad experience but it’s good to hear you used your gut and you don’t seem too put off by the experience!
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Which favela were you in? I think Dona Marta is pretty used to tourists too (thanks to MJ), but it still felt unsafe, especially with the cable car down. I’m not saying it is unsafe. I met some lovely people and nothing bad actually happened, but the looks we got from some people were enough to make me question my safety…
Ari. This sounds a bit mad! Glad you got out in one piece. Great post. Keep them coming. You are a travel writing legend!
Haha. Thanks Elin! Yes, it was an interesting experience to say the least. Now I know I got out safe, I’m glad I went to have a look around though.
LoL! Even if the impromptu tour guide had honest intentions good on both of you for trusting your instincts!
Yes, it was a tough call because we really wanted to see everything, but it just wasn’t worth the risk, however much smaller that risk may be these days.
That’s good you still have “the breaks” :) after years of safe travels people lose it…
Argentina and Brazil are on my next trip to South America. But, I am still not sure when I go there. Maybe after World Cup 2014.
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Yes, I sometimes found myself feeling overly confident. I have a friend who got so blase she actually left her backpack on a bus! It’s best to stay alert no matter how well things have gone so far. If you want any specific tips for Argentina/Brazil closer to the time, and they’re not on my blog, drop me an email.
I had no idea that it’s so easy to wander around a favela. Ipanema Beach looks like the creme de la creme of natural settings.
Yes, I know! It’s a very popular tourist draw these days. I think it’s great that they’re becoming safer, but it’s still a good idea to exercise some caution.
Great post with lots of interesting facts! I don’t think I would risk going into a favela either without a guide or known local. And I’d rather help the economy by paying for the tour service, than tempting crime or theft.
That’s a good point. If the money goes to improving the situation, it’s a good investment. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been so tight with my budget!
If it’s good enough for MJ, it’s good enough for me! Think I probably would have been pretty scared though, you don’t get excitement without a bit of fear! :-)
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That is very true, although there is a difference between adventure activities and wandering through a dangerous area!
I love this song and never knew it was filmed in Dona Marta favela. I’ve heard many stories of how dangerous this place can be, but you just need to be extra careful, that’s it :)
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I never knew it was even filmed in Brazil! There’s a few music videos I like to watch now because they show places I went on that trip.
I love the video and location as well. Heared the woman who popped in to MJ and hugged him, was a big suprise to MJ security team and crew. But MJ seemed to cool with the suprised. I always heard latin American countries are dangerous
Good for MJ! I found Latin America to be a fantastic part of the world for travel. Sure, there were a few hairy moments, but I’ve spent 12 months there in total backpacking by myself and it’s generally just been a warm and welcoming place. I would love to return one day soon :)
I usually go with my gut instinct because I do think there are subtle clues your body tunes into. I would have stopped lone before you did – but loved the excuse. I’h heard about the cable car really changing many lives for the better.
This is one very interesting post.
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Yes, introducing cable cars to the favelas was inspired by Medellin in Colombia apparently. It’s cut crime significantly and, let’s face it, is a lot more fun that clambering up the hillside!
Ari, great piece. Really helpful for travelling tourists especially women travelling alone. Glad you trusted your instincts and you, Amber and your canon got out in one piece!
Thanks Lois. I’m amazed that Canon made it 7 months and returned in one piece to the UK. Losing my photos was one of my biggest fears of all!
My Brazilian friends have always said to me ‘never’ but then again some are becoming tourist attractions and so you would think the locals are used to it. Either way, you are not the first person to get a bad feeling there and the only people I know you have been OK have lived or wroked there and built up trust, and become a known face. Good job you escaped and trusted your instinct. Always a good tool when travelling ;)
Yes, I’ve heard about people volunteering or living in Rio favelas and being absolutely fine, so perhaps building up trust is the key. I have no doubt that the majority of the residents want nothing more than to give a good impression and improve the area in which they live, but this doesn’t mean you should throw caution to the wind.
Ari, I’m glad you got out safely! This sounds a bit scary but is definitely something I’d like to experience, especially after seeing films like City of God and Elite Squad. But (and perhaps ‘cos I’ve seen those films!) I think I’d get the guided tour. Good MJ fact too!
It definitely wasn’t anything like as bad as in City of God. Perhaps because I’ve seen that too, my mind was playing tricks on me. Maybe the guy with the drill had good intentions after all!
Wow sounds scary. Shame people should be put of exploring new areas but it’s good to be aware of your limits and trust your instincts. Will use your advice on any future trips!
Thanks Cheryl. I agree. It’s a shame there are areas where you have to feel so insecure, but then again, travel wouldn’t be so interesting if everywhere was the same.
Cool post!!!
Thanks Diego! Hope you found it useful!
Fantastic article Ari!
Extremely jealous you got to explore a favela. I think I would get a tour guide, just because the last time I was brave in Rio I got mugged (to be fair you can get mugged anywhere). Always trust your instincts is the golden rule for sure
Very true. My instincts told me I would get mugged walking around Lapa in Rio, and sure enough, someone tried. That was only a couple of weeks before the favela trip so I was being even more cautious than usual. Sorry about your experience.
MJ may have had good intentions or his own reasons but it’s good to know people like you draw attention to the favelas by going there and writing about it. Nothing will ever change if people don’t see what they’re like.
I agree. And despite not feeling 100% safe when I was there, it was really encouraging to see how things are changing. The tourism projects are doing a lot to improve the situation. People never would have wandered around favelas or volunteered in them the way they do now 10 years ago.
Arianwen, I think you did the right thing. If you don’t feel right, your instint is telling you something and its best to listen to it.
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I think you’re right. Even if you can’t identify a specific problem, your instinct is usually right. I think there was also a part of me that wanted an excuse not to traipse up the hill!
In my experience, you should always think twice before you invade other peoples private spaces, and it is better to get out in one piece than to go too far. But thanks for venturing in and sharing an interesting experience:)
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I always find it hard with places like this to decide if it’s going to be perceived as culturally enlightening or stepping into people’s personal space and ogling at their misfortune. But as long as tourism isn’t having negative consequences on a place, it can’t be a bad thing. In this case, I think it’s helping to make the favelas safer, and a lot of the locals seemed genuinely happy to see us and to chat. Despite them promoting tourism though, we didn’t see any other foreigners around the whole time we were there.
I’m not sure yet how I feel about tourism of favelas or slums. I want to learn more about a place and what life is like, but I also wonder how the locals feel about a tourist wandering through.
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I totally agree. I think if you have the right attitude and are not just there to gawp it’s fine. I really enjoyed chatting to the locals, seeing the surprisingly colourful buildings and trying to track down the scene of MJ’s video, but if it turned into the sort of place people swarmed through with video cameras, it would definitely have an impact on those who live there. I hope tourism can have a positive impact on these places, without the locals losing their identity, and I hope tourists will always respect their personal space like they would any other neighbourhood they check out.
Interesting piece this. I recently visited a township in South Africa, and while I didn’t feel unsafe at all, I’m of two minds about whether one should be a tourist in people’s daily life. Not easy…
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It’s a hard one to decide. People are tourists in other people’s neighbourhoods all the time and no one minds. It’s hard to visit somewhere and not be in someone’s back yard. I guess the difference comes when it starts to have an impact on the people who live there. I didn’t get the impression many people visit the favelas at the moment, but I would hate to think that in the future the streets will be full of tour groups. I wonder how the locals feel about it all, because the tourism project in this particular favela does seem to have reduced crime and made the area a safer place to raise a family, but nobody wants their home to turn into a tourist attraction. I’d be interested to see what the future holds for the residents and I hope the only changes are positive ones.
Wow you are brave for going to a favela without a guide. I went to a favela with a guided tour and only felt at unease when we saw a bunch of guys guarding a house with machine guns and when the house owner alegedly offered us some coke (it turned out it wasn’t the white powder as I initially thought but coca cola). I would have felt at unease with this guy who wanted to show you around as well, and you did the right thing turning back. Your insticts are usually right.
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Some say brave, some say stupid! At the end of the day, something like this isn’t worth risking your life for and we’d already gained some great insights into what the favela was like and had long chats with one of two locals. I would be interested in one of the favela volunteering projects one of these days. My mum’s cousin’s wife, who we stayed with for Carnival, is a teacher at an international school, but she also does some shifts at a school in one of the favelas and she says even though it pays less good it’s really rewarding.
Hi! Just wanted to point out that a lot of this video was filmed in the Pelourinho in` Salvador in the Northeast state of Bahia. And the band is called Olodum :)
Thanks Allie. That’s awesome knowledge! I was aware that part of it was filmed in Salvador. I probably should have made that more clear so thanks for pointing it out!
One should normally go on a guided tour of the favelas. Some companies offer such trips and at least they know where they take you – the most interesting places etc.
Alone, the curious solo traveler could wander into the most dangerous filthy areas where shady creeps roam.
I think it’s best to take a tour or avoid them all together – unless you’re there for a completely different reason like teaching or volunteering. It’s a difficult one. I can understand why locals would be against tourists coming to see their homes, but if the money they pay for the tour is put to good use, can we condemn the tours? I think it’s important that tourists research the safety aspects of visiting a favela, consider what their reasons are for wanting to go and ensure that they choose a tour that benefits those who live there. I think the best tours are those that enable you to interact with the residents. At Dona Marta, there is a programme that’s enabling locals to work as guides. There just didn’t seem to be any around when we visited!