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Mama Negra Festival: a Surreal Experience

October 21, 2012 by Arianwen Morris 13 Comments

Mama Negra festival is a celebration of a legend. The city of Latacunga in Ecuador sits under the shadow of Cotopaxi Volcano. Cotopaxi is one of the biggest active volcanos in the world. It destroyed the town twice and, in 1742, it threatened to do so again. Fearing its imminent threat, the locals of Latacunga prayed to the Virgen de la Merced and the town was saved.

In her honour, they host a party in the streets twice a year – once in September, and then again in November. This spectacle is known as  the Mama Negra festival.

Mama Negra festival - locals observe the parade

MAMA NEGRA FESTIVAL

The Mama Negra Festival parade involves thousands of people dressed in brightly coloured costumes dancing, drinking, carrying pig carcases and performing rituals with live guinea pigs. They spit alcohol at spectators and occasionally force it down their throats.

Last to pass through is Mama Negra herself – a local man dressed as a black woman, who rides a horse and sprays milk on the crowds. It’s somewhat non-PC.

Here is a taste of what to expect

MAMA NEGRA

Mama Negra festival - Mama Negra herself

Mama Negra makes her way through the crowds.

BABY DOLLS

Mama Negra festival - man with doll

A masked man dances with a baby doll.

JESTERS

Mama Negra festival - getting accosted

Jesters dance around me with sticks, spitting alcohol on my head!

WINGED CREATURES

Mama Negra festival - Ku Klux Klan

Cute or scary? These characters look like Ku Klux Klan, crossed with MC Hammer on acid.

TRADITIONAL DANCE

Mama Negra festival - women dancing

Adding a splash of normality to the festivities, women dance in traditional dress.

PIG CARCASES

Mama Negra festival - carrying the pig

Pig carcases laden with alcohol and cigarettes are paraded through the streets.

GUINEA PIGS

Mama Negra festival - molested by guinea pigs

A strange ritual involving herbs and a live guinea pig.

ALL-INCLUSIVE ATMOSPHERE

Mama Negra festival - happy travellers

Mama Negra Festival is a great chance to make new friends. Just make sure you book your hostel in advance because nobody wants to miss it! This is an all-day affair with fireworks continuing into the night, so get a good night’s sleep the night before.

OTHER THINGS TO DO IN LATACUNGA

Most people visit Latacunga for world-class hiking. The Cotopaxi volcano climb is a challenging hike requiring crampons and a lot of will power. Setting off at midnight from a refugio, it’s an unrelenting slog in freezing conditions, but the views once you break through the clouds make it all worthwhile. Prepare for this high-altitude experience with a Quilotoa day trip and some lighter hikes in the surrounding area. Quilotoa Crater Lake is a stunning body of aquamarine water. If you’re continuing on to Banos, the Banos to Puyo bike ride is a great way to get some exercise without overdoing it. You can follow the road downhill for almost 60 km and then hitch a ride back in a truck.

Comments

  1. Ashley of Ashley Abroad says

    October 21, 2012 at 7:45 pm

    It seems like you had an awesome time! I went to a festival in Ecuador (way up in the mountains) and I just remember feeling like a huge gringa, haha.
    Ashley of Ashley Abroad recently posted..5 Expressions to Help You Survive ParisMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      October 21, 2012 at 8:27 pm

      Yes, I agree! But it’s nice to feel like you stand out as a gringa. It’s better than being among so many that you could be anywhere.

      Reply
  2. Mads says

    October 23, 2012 at 6:53 pm

    I want to go to this festival…looks amazing!!

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      October 24, 2012 at 6:07 pm

      It was so cool! They have it twice a year, and the November one is meant to be even better!

      Reply
  3. Neil says

    November 6, 2012 at 3:26 pm

    Hahahaha, great line – Ku Klux Klan, crossed with MC Hammer on acid
    Neil recently posted..Mark Hodson of @101holidaysMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 9, 2012 at 6:33 pm

      That’s exactly what they were :) God knows how those outfits got incorporated into a South American festival, but I love it.

      Reply
  4. Joanne says

    November 8, 2012 at 9:28 pm

    Ha that festival looks awesome!!!! What a story!

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 9, 2012 at 6:33 pm

      It was so worth sticking around in Latacunga for!

      Reply
  5. memographer says

    April 22, 2013 at 8:06 pm

    “men, who danced around me with sticks, spitting alcohol on my head…” sounds like a dream ;)

    Beautiful street photos!
    memographer recently posted..Machu Picchu – The Lost City of The IncasMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      April 22, 2013 at 8:10 pm

      Haha. I loved Mama Negra. It’s so worth trying to time your trip to be in Latacunga for it. One of the best cultural experiences I’ve had!

      Reply

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