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The Road from San Cristobal to Palenque

January 24, 2015 by Arianwen Morris 14 Comments

The road from San Cristobal to Palenque is long and bumpy, but the good news is that there are quite a few really exciting stops that you can incorporate into the journey.

IN AND AROUND SAN CRISTOBAL

San Cristobal to Palenque - San Cristobal

It’s worth spending at least a couple of days in San Cristobal itself. The town is beautiful and it feels very safe. As you explore the markets, gift stores, cafes and bakeries, it becomes clear that many travellers have stranded themselves here intentionally because it’s such a welcoming place to be.

Also worth a look are the Sumidero Canyon and the nearby town of Chamula, which has a very interesting church where rituals are performed.

THE ROAD FROM SAN CRISTOBAL TO PALENQUE

If you’re driving a rental car and driving from San Cristobal to Palenque, there are two stops you can’t miss – the natural pools of Agua Azul and the Misol-Ha waterfall.

If you’re relying on public transport, there are tours that will pick you and your luggage up from San Cristobal, take you to these magical places and drop you off in Palenque after an included couple of hours at the ruins. Be warned: it’s a ridiculously early start.

With such obvious natural beauty en route, as well as the incentive to cool off, splash around and play on rope swings, it would be hard to avoid Agua Azul and Misol-Ha, but there’s one additional reason you’ll be keen to break up this journey. The road is brutal. Your backside will need a break from all of the road bumps and potholes, and your stomach will be relieved not to have to take on another sharp curve for a while.

CASCADAS DE AGUA AZUL

San Cristobal to Palenque - Agua Azul

About 65 km from the end of your journey from San Cristobal to Palenque, the Cascadas de Agua Azul – or waterfalls of blue water – are made up of multiple cataracts. They originate in the municipality of Tumbalá, where the Shmulia, Otulun and Tulia rivers meet.

The turquoise water gathers in cool natural pools that are perfect for a refreshing dip on a hot day. Some areas are cordoned off and can only be admired from man-made boardwalks and viewing platforms. The swimming areas are clearly marked and easily located thanks to the shrieks of people flinging themselves from rope swings. Only swim in the designated areas and don’t get out of your depth as the currents can be strong and people have drowned. Also note that the water can be dirty and murky after heavy rains. Don’t leave your belongings unattended  as theft is not uncommon here.

While most images of the area make it look idyllic, it’s important to note that this is a popular spot for both tourists and locals. It can get very busy, and where there are crowds, there are stalls and food vendors. It’s a shame that Agua Azul’s beauty is somewhat marred by this, but at least you can grab yourself a handful of fried empañadas for next to nothing. You’ll also probably appreciate the shower block – a rare luxury as natural swimming spots go.

Expect to pay an entrance fee of up to 40 pesos and consider visiting of your own accord because you might want to spend the whole day here.

MISOL-HA

San Cristobal to Palenque - Misol-Ha Diving Board

Misol-Ha is a spectacular 35-metre waterfall in the middle of the jungle. At its base is a huge plunge pool surrounded by lush vegetation and perfect for swimming.

A slippery path leads behind the falls to a cave that you can pay 10 pesos to explore. At the time of writing a plank of wood was balanced precariously over the cliff edge. It may look like a diving board or a good place from which to view the falls, but it’s neither. If someone hasn’t already toppled off the edge, they will one day. Don’t be that person.

Just out of view, along a footpath and short stretch of road, is a car park and restaurant. Bear in mind that if you visit Misol-Ha independently, you will have to pay an entrance fee – twice. This is due to territory disputes. The total cost should be around 20 to 30 pesos, which, despite the double admission, is still a bargain.

PALENQUE

San Cristobal to Palenque - Palenque

As ruins in Mexico go – and there are many – Palenque is one of the best.

This ancient Mayan city dates back as far as 226 BC and is remarkably well preserved. While Palenque is quite small in comparison with some other ruins, it is thought that the majority of the city remains undiscovered behind dense jungle.

Having travelled from San Cristobal to Palenque, it can be difficult to accustom to the heat and humidity of Palenque.

The wildlife may come as a bit of a shock as well. Howler monkeys bellow from deep within the jungle, toucans flash their colourful beaks and ocelots prowl in search of prey. Keep a close eye on the ground foliage and you might even spot a snake or tarantula.

The entrance to Palenque is a giant car park filled with touts selling everything from refreshments to hats and souvenirs. Many of the paths within the gates are also lined with vendors. At the entrance to the site, official guides vie for your attention. Just past the entrance, young, unofficial guides try to impress you with their knowledge of your country’s football players and, failing that, offer to be your boyfriend. They may mean well, but you can glean almost as much information from plaques dotted around the site and it’s arguably more enjoyable to explore the ruins at your own pace.

Admission is a reasonable 60 pesos, which is remarkably consistent with pretty much any ruin in the country except Chichen Itza. If you’re basing yourself in the area, the only selling point of the town of Palenque itself is its proximity to the ruins and the bus station. A much more attractive option for accommodation is the nearby forest hangout of El Panchán.

WHERE TO STAY

San Cristobal to Palenque - Palenque

I’ve recently started using HotelsCombined to search for accommodation as I travel. It’s become one of my favourite tools because it aggregates the results of online searches from over 40 travel sites to bring you the best deals much faster than if you had to look them up to compare them separately. The road from San Cristobal to Palenque is a long one and you’ll be arriving at your destination late, so it’s best to have your accommodation booked at either end in advance. I had to run around between four or five hostels in San Cristobal and move half way through my visit because I hadn’t planned ahead.

Find vacation hotels cheap

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Comments

  1. Tim L. says

    January 27, 2015 at 11:20 pm

    Fantastic! I took this trip a few years ago, but with a lame tour company that didn’t do it justice. Your trip sounds much better. Such a gorgeous area.

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      January 27, 2015 at 11:26 pm

      Oh no! It’s a shame you didn’t have such a good time. I thought everything was beautiful. The only downside for me was having had about 3 hours sleep and then needing to wait about 8 hours after the trip for a bus out of Palenque! But I only have myself to blame for that!

      Reply
  2. Wandering Educators says

    January 31, 2015 at 11:32 pm

    All that water is so beautiful!
    Wandering Educators recently posted..#StudyAbroadBecause it kills prejudice, widens your horizons, and is a whole lot of fun!My Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      January 31, 2015 at 11:47 pm

      Isn’t it?! I wish I’d had longer to play around in it. That’s why I recommend people travel there independently and leave time to enjoy each stop along the way :)

      Reply
  3. Amelia says

    February 5, 2015 at 12:12 pm

    A great write up of beautiful places, and a walk down memory lane for me. I was there in August 2014 and wrote about it on my own site. Pictures just don’t do it justice!

    I stayed almost a week at El Panchan in Palenque and plan to get back by the end of this year with my family. I have heard rumors that access to the ruins will be more restricted within a few years, as in you won’t be able to climb on and in them, so I want to take my family before that happens.

    Thanks for the info on seeing things independently, we went with a tour group and while it was interesting we were watching the clock all day. I’d prefer to take my time.
    Amelia recently posted..The Logic Behind Moving To MexicoMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      February 5, 2015 at 12:25 pm

      I completely agree. There were a few tours I did in Mexico where they rush you around all the main sites and you feel like you didn’t get a chance to do any of them justice. It’s great if you’re short on time, but if you have the opportunity to take it slowly, a lot of these places are better visited independently.

      Reply
    • Yok says

      June 18, 2015 at 11:26 am

      Are you serious about restricting access to the ruins/temples? I suppose it makes sense given the volume of Mexican and foreign tourists, but I think part of Palenque’s magic is the opportunity to interact with and feel its ferocity; it’s enduring grip on power.

      Hopefully they regulate the number of daily entrants rather than the interaction.
      Yok recently posted..กิ้งก่าสีฟ้า ส๊ดสด กับ ทะเลเดดซี จอร์แดนMy Profile

      Reply
      • Arianwen Morris says

        June 19, 2015 at 8:56 am

        I’m not sure if they will restrict access, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they did. I suppose it”s all about getting the balance between enabling people to experience the power and the magic, and making sure that the site is conserved. You can’t climb around Chichen Itza anymore. Coming from England, where they protect everything obsessively, I was actually quite surprised we were allowed to climb a lot of the temples in Latin America. At Tikal, they had boardwalks and steps beside some of the structures to limit any damage. This was a great idea, although it did detract a lot from the overall appearance: it made it a lot harder to imagine what the site was like when the Mayans were there!
        Arianwen Morris recently posted..Sightseeing with the London Pass: is it Worth the Money?My Profile

        Reply
  4. Mike says

    February 10, 2015 at 5:41 am

    The Misol-Ha waterfall and the natural pools at Agua Azul sound terrific though I’m not a huge fan of crowds. I know, it’s all give and take for the experience :) What I would love even more to see is those ruins, Arianwen! :)
    Mike recently posted..Anthony’s Restaurant At SeaTac Airport In Seattle WashingtonMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      February 10, 2015 at 4:04 pm

      Well, I hope you get the chance to go one day Mike. I honestly couldn’t get enough of the ruins in Central America. It must have been incredible back in the days when they were being used by Mesoamericans!

      Reply
  5. Lauren says

    September 30, 2015 at 3:51 am

    We are a family of 3 (traveling with a 5 year old). If we want to make these stops, how do you recommend that we get from San Cristobol to Palenque? Rent a car?
    Thanks!
    Lauren

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      September 30, 2015 at 6:17 am

      That’s definitely an option. You could rent a car or take a tour, which you could book from accommodation in San Cristobal or Palenque. I’m sure if you’re renting a car you could find out some useful information on timings/directions in either place too. I hope you have a lovely time. It’s a beautiful journey.

      Reply
    • Kirsten says

      October 19, 2015 at 2:48 am

      Lauren–are you going the week after xmas? We’ll be going with our (almost) 5 year old daughter and would love to meet up–so much better when kids have other kids around!

      Kirsten Hudson (in Los Angeles)

      Reply

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