Sometimes travel plans don’t work out. Sometimes that sucks. This is the story of how a failed attempt to fulfil a lifelong dream of swimming with dolphins led to an even more unique and moving wildlife encounter – an afternoon at a seal pup nursery in the woods.
THE DOLPHIN DREAM
I’ve travelled far and wide hoping to have the chance to swim with dolphins, but for one reason or another it never seems to work out. Either they’ve gone AWOL, there’s an endangered species nearby that prevents us from entering the water, or the weather conditions aren’t conducive to boat trips.
When I was planning my tour of New Zealand, one particular experience kept presenting itself as an unmissable opportunity – swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura. Pretty much every article I read on the country’s highlights told me I had to do it.
KAIKOURA–
On my first night in Kaikoura, a gale blew so strong I feared that the walls of my hostel might fall down around me. By morning, there were uprooted trees and overturned lorries on the road outside. With a sinking feeling, I strolled around the corner to the Dolphin Encounter office.
Sure enough, despite the winds having died down, the ocean looking surprisingly calm, and a rainbow appearing over the town, I was told that conditions were too dangerous to take a boat out. I altered my itinerary, booked an extra night and waited patiently for another opportunity only to find that the scouts had been unable to locate the pod.
ALTERNATIVE PLANS
Thankfully, Kaikoura is not a difficult place to kill time. It’s one of the most picturesque coastal towns and there are plenty of walks around the headland. And then, there’s the seal pup nursery!
Just along the highway is a place called Ohau where seals leave their pups to play in the forest while they hunt for fish in the sea.
SEAL PUPS
It’s unusual to see seals anywhere other than in the ocean or beside the sea, which is why the seal pup nursery in Ohau is so special. As you walk along the well-trodden paths, you encounter dozens of these adorable creatures and they’re not shy.
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Sit yourself down on a tree stump or rock and the seal pups will likely come on over with an inquisitive expression on their faces.
THE WATERFALL
Just a few minutes walk into the forest is a waterfall. This is the pups’ favourite playground. They splash around in the plunge pool for hours on end chasing fish and hopping in and out. Sometimes it’s so full that it’s hard to see where one body ends and another begins.
IS KAIKOURA WORTH THE GAMBLE
My advice to anyone debating whether or not a stay in Kaikoura is worthwhile would be to book yourself in for a night or two. This place is so charming, you’re unlikely to regret it, even if your whale or dolphin trip is cancelled for unavoidable reasons.
At worst, you will have a relaxing time wandering through beautiful scenery, watching the waves crash on the beach and getting tickled by the whiskers of a curious seal pup. With any luck you could be bobbing in the ocean, with a pod of 400 plus dolphins swimming dizzily in circles around you.
UPDATE: Tragically, Ohau Point was destroyed by a landslide during an earthquake on November 14, 2016. This did not happen during the pup rearing season and it is unclear at this time whether or not the seals will be able to return to the seal pup nursery or continue this behaviour nearby.
For more information on whale watching in Kaikoura, check out this whale watching trip Agata from Null ‘N’ Full went on with a company called Wings Over Whales.
GETTING TO KAIKOURA
Intercity Buses provide services to Kaikoura from the following popular destinations (rough times in brackets): Picton (2 hours); Christchurch (3 hours); Nelson (5 hours). Further transfers are available from these locations. Use the booking tool below to search for a specific journey or click through to the Intercity website to learn about their flexipass and a wide range of day tours.
WHERE TO STAY
I stayed at Albatross Backpackers and it was fantastic. Everyone I met there was staying longer than they’d originally intended. It’s a great place to meet other travellers and the art corner and musical instruments ensure that people interact. They cooked everyone a meal on my first night and I met loads of people to go on day trips with. Interestingly, my dad even recommended it after visiting Kaikoura last year, which just goes to show it appeals to all kinds!
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You can follow my Kiwi adventures on Twitter via the hashtag #ScaredBritless or check out my Facebook updates here. For more information about travelling in New Zealand, visit 100% Pure New Zealand.
Such a shame you didn’t see any dolphins (it is an incredible experience!) but I am sooo jealous of the seals – oh my gosh could they be any cuter? If you’re still in NZ – and heading up to the Bay of Islands there are still chances to see Dolphins up there too – that’s where I saw them :) x
I’ve left NZ now, but thank you for the tip. I almost went to the Bay of Islands when I was in Auckland, but I ran out of time and it was a long way for just a day trip. I actually ended up seeing a pod in the distance when I was on the boat in Milford Sound. It was better than nothing I guess!
Sorry the dolphin swimming did not work out for you but there is always a next time and I’m sure one day you will be swimming with the dolphins :) Looks like you had a great time anyway, those seal pups are indeed so adorable.
Freya recently posted..In the Spotlight: Arenal Volcano National Park
I won’t give up! I think maybe I’m being denied even the briefest of moments with them so that the time I finally get to swim with them is even more special…
Don’t worry, they are not my friends either. Went river dolphin spotting in Brazil and Cambodia and all I saw were a few fins about 50 m away. I think the seals in the waterfall are a much more special sight anyway. How cute!
TammyOnTheMove recently posted..Flashback Friday: The day I met Diego Maradona
Yeah, I wasn’t too disappointed. It’s meant to be incredible, but I might never have seen the seals if it hadn’t been cancelled.
You are an absolutely wonderful writer, Arianwen! New Zealand is definitely on my list and I too would want to the dolphin experience. That was soooo cute on that seal pup following up the trail :)
Mike recently posted..Phoenix And Friends, Zachary Where Are You??
Thank you! I honestly think that couple was a bit frightened. You don’t usually meet such sociable wildlife!
You’re right, nothing cuter than a seal pup – just look at his eyes!! SO CUTE! :D
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The mum’s weren’t cute though. I encountered one later in the day that was blocking my path, and it actually attacked me!
Great blog entry Arianwen! We were so sorry that you weren’t able to get on the water with us this time – give you a great excuse to come back sometime though ay?! And we would love to welcome you aboard when you do and hopefully get you a big fat tick on your bucket list for you! :-)
Thank you! That’s not a problem. I was disappointed, of course, but I had such a fantastic time in Kaikoura, I’m still very glad I visited. These things happen when you have to contend with the weather and wildlife. I would love to come back and try my luck a second time. I will definitely be in touch if that opportunity presents itself.
That is such a bummer! We went kayaking in a bay in Hawaii that always has dolphins, and we didn’t see a single one because some idiot had decided to jump in the water with them (which you are not supposed to do there). Good luck with getting a close encounter soon!
Katherine Belarmino recently posted..Snorkeling Thailand’s Ko Phi Phi Islands
Ugh. I hate it when one person ruins it for everyone else! Sorry to hear that. And thank you! I’m still on the lookout!
I want a seal pup! I want one. So cute. You will see dolphins, though I think Whales are far more exciting. Go and find some Whales I bet they will be your friend :)
Haha. Sound advice! I will go and find some whales…