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Ngorongoro Crater – home of the breakdancing zebra

May 13, 2012 by Arianwen Morris 9 Comments

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - wildebeest in crater

Wildebeest in Ngorongoro Crater

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The campsite at Ngorongoro Crater is situated at its rim. We pitched our tents in a field not far from the edge, where the ground dropped away, offering spectacular views. Our jeep had arrived from the Serengeti at about 4:30 pm, giving us enough time to set up camp and get settled in before the light faded.

I went to take a shower in a shower block that was even more infested with jumpy bugs than our first campsite of the tour at Lake Manyara. You’ve just got to suck it up and get in and out as quickly as possible. I’d also recommend running the water for a bit before you get in. This is when the bugs really go frantic trying to escape a watery death and a few disappear into the adjacent cubicle.

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - campsite bugs

Showertime buddies

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As soon as I got back to my tent, one of the guides rushed over and beckoned me to where the jeeps were parked beside the shower blocks. A couple of wild adult elephants were drinking water from the shower supply – not your everyday reason for reduced water pressure!

We stood and watched them for some time. One man was attempting to get up close to take photos, and the guides seemed quite nervous that the elephants might charge him. They waited armed with rifles just in case there was an incident and this made it very clear just how dangerous these giant creatures can be if you unnerve them. They certainly unnerved me. I remained hidden behind a jeep and then took the long route back to our tent, making a mental note not to use the shower block in the night.

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - elephant toilets

Our tour group gathered by mine and my friend Ally’s tent and we poured ourselves some of the local tipple – Konyagi – with coke, to sip on as we admired the sunset.

Perhaps a little macabre, we discussed writing in our diaries how we’d like our funerals to be organised in case the elephants trampled our tents in the night. Africa by Toto was a popular song choice, though I don’t think any of us would choose that now!

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - konyagi campsite

Me and Ally drinking Konyagi and coke by our tent

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Dinner that evening was curry and rice. As we ate, a massive cricket suddenly landed on our table and, just as we were begining to relax from the shock of it, it launched itself off again and landed on Ally’s face. It was probably a very traumatic experience for her but really amusing for the rest of us – sorry Ally!

With the darkness at this high altitude, it was very cold so we all gathered around a bonfire. I chatted to a group who were on a bus tour through Africa from Cape Town to Nairobi. One of them was from the same village I grew up in – yet another example of what a small world it is, although not as crazy as when my sister and I actually bumped into friends at the top of the Rockefeller building! After an hour or so of star gazing – the skies are so clear up there and there’s no light pollution at all – we crawled, shivering, into our rented sleeping bags.

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - drive into crater

The next morning we got up at 5 am, ate a quick breakfast in the dark and packed ourselves into the jeep. There was a beautiful red sunrise over Ngorongoro Crater, reflecting off the soft clouds that were rolling in over the crater’s rim.

It was a very steep drive into the crater and we gripped on to our seats nervously. Once safely on level ground, we manoeuvred along dirt tracks and admired the views of migrating wildebeest against the crater’s dramatic backdrop.

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - run DMC zebra

Breakdancing zebra

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There were hundreds of zebras, including one that seemed to have an itch and was going mental spinning about on its back in the dust, giving the impression it was breakdancing.

We watched a pair of lions mating and felt somewhat intrusive, although I’m sure they were oblivious to our presence.

Next came the highlight of the four-day safari. Of the ‘big five’ animals – so called because, in the days of poaching, they were notoriously difficult to hunt – the rhino was the only one we hadn’t seen yet. Very far in the distance was a female black rhino and her calf. These are extremely rare now. Our guide told us there were only 20 still living in the crater (an area of over 8000 km²) and that the rangers had to keep a very close eye on them.

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - theyre behind you

They’re behind you!

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Just after the rhino, our guide received a message from one of the other jeeps and we sped off to a spot where four other jeeps were already lined up. Just metres from the side of the track was a pair of cheetahs. They were sitting still in the grass, occasionally breaking their cover for a peek at the passing wildebeest and zebras. We hoped we’d get to see a chase, but it seemed they weren’t at all hungry.

We stopped off by a lake with hippos and a very large tree and we all got out of the jeep to stretch our legs. Once again, I was surprised that the guides were happy for us to wander around in such close proximity to hippos, which are notoriously dangerous. This had also been the case on the first day by Lake Manyara.

Safari in Ngorongoro Crater - elephants on the hill

Elephants climb the hill on the drive out of the crater

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The drive back out of the crater was even hairier than the one in. The path we took was quite muddy and a jeep ahead of us had got stuck. We arrived back at the campsite in one piece though, and sat in the field eating a packed lunch while our guide packed up our tents in the jeep. They had already been taken down by Omari, our chef, while we’d been out in the crater.

I was sad that our time on safari was over, but more than satisfied that it had been worthwhile. I’d recommend it to anyone, whether or not they’re wildlife fanatics. You meet some great people along the way and it really is an unforgettable experience. On top of that, you wonder how much longer it will be before some of these magnificent species become extinct. I feel privileged to have seen them in their natural habitat and it’s given me an even greater appreciation of those who dedicate their lives to wildlife conservation in these areas.

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Comments

  1. Vicky says

    May 14, 2012 at 9:10 am

    Looks amazing! I’ll be meeting the breakdancing zebra in a month’s time. Not too keen on the buggy shower though, might just give it a miss :)
    Vicky recently posted..Celeb Hunt in LAMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      May 14, 2012 at 6:02 pm

      Tell him I said hi. Yeah, the bugs ruin it for everyone don’t they! I do think if you give them a chance to get out before you get in, it isn’t too bad though. You might be staying somewhere better – some safaris go to very swish lodges! Either way, you’ll love it!

      Reply
  2. Miranda Glasser says

    May 29, 2012 at 4:40 pm

    Loved reading this, it really took me back to my trip there last year. It was bloody cold wasn’t it! Your elephants at the shower story reminded me that my husband had an exact same elephant encounter, only at night. I wonder if it was the same one?

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      May 29, 2012 at 6:22 pm

      Yeah, you don’t expect it to get that cold in Africa! I think it probably was the same camp site. It’s popular with tour groups and that herd of elephants clearly realised they had a good thing going. I wouldn’t be surprised if they show up whenever they’re thirsty!

      Reply
  3. WYNNA says

    June 30, 2012 at 6:21 am

    Oh how I love to experience my own safari (minus the bugs, I hate bugs!)! Too bad Africa is still a little far from my budget but we also have our own wildlife safari in Calauit, Palawan and it’s on the top of my to-go list. They do have zebras there and hopefully some cousins of that breakdancing zebra of yours will show itself on my trip.:) Great read!

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      June 30, 2012 at 10:42 am

      I love checking out the wildlife when I visit a new country, but nothing has ever compared with Tanzania. I’m headed to the Amazon soon, so we’ll see which wins out after that! I just looked up the Calauit safari online. It looks great! I would love to visit the Philippines one day.

      Reply
  4. James says

    February 4, 2015 at 5:02 am

    This is an amazing post. All the things shared by you are helpful for all in their safety in the tour. Really it’s a lovely one. All the photos shared are enjoyable.

    Reply

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