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TEFL in a Graveyard: Chauchilla Cemetery

November 18, 2012 by Arianwen Morris 13 Comments

I’ll start this post with a warning. It’s going to get weird. I’ll attempt to explain how I ended up teaching English as a foreign language in a graveyard – surrounded by mummies – while interspersing it with disturbing shots of mummified humans from the Nazca civilisation!

Chauchilla cemetery - terrified mummy

I thought I’d struck a good deal when my hostel Inti Wasi put together a package for me that included a night’s accommodation, breakfast, a flight over the Nazca lines, and a guided tour of the Chauchilla cemetery and a couple of museums.

As I explained in my Nazca lines post, things started off somewhat rocky the night before when we were warned about a car rally that would be taking place in the city that might slow traffic. This had resulted in a request to be ready and waiting in the hostel reception by 6:30 am.

Chauchilla cemetery - shivering mummy

It wasn’t until 7:45 that I was finally picked up to be driven to the airport. Because of the early start, I hadn’t received that free breakfast, but this girl’s made of stronger stuff than to let that get her down.

A short drive later, I arrived at the airport, but still had to wait until 11:30 for my flight. They promised a ‘present’ as an apology, but it never materialised. The hostel staff had also neglected to mention the additional airport tax of S25.

Chauchilla cemetery - cute baby mummy

After a wobbly flight over the lines, I was ferried back to the hostel, where I vacated my room and waited until 3:30 for my cemetery tour to begin. 3:30 came and went and I had a strong sense of deja vu.

Finally, at 5, my guide, Ricardo, turned up – nickname: condor, because he’s very small (irony) and has a nose like a beak (no kidding!).

Chauchilla cemetery - obese mummy

I realised I was the only one in the ‘tour group’ as I clambered into the car beside him. His English wasn’t bad, but it took him a while to get his words out. We got over the formalities and he explained that he was trying to improve, so it would be best if we stuck to my language – fine by me!

Except that as we drove and I nattered away, he kept asking me to write down phrases in his notebook. I saw I wasn’t the first foreigner to fall victim to his sneaky scheme of taking free language lessons. Normally this wouldn’t bother me – I enjoy helping others learn – but the ‘tour’ was lacking somewhat in the information department.

Chauchilla cemetery - well-dressed mummy

When we reached the cemetery, I was asked to pay S8 as an entry fee. Surely the S50 I’d paid for the afternoon trip to the cemetery should include entry to said cemetery? Or am I crazy?

Night fell as we walked around tombs containing freakish mummified humans. There was no one else around and the site was surrounded for miles by arid land. It’s a good thing I don’t spook too easily!

Chauchilla cemetery - surprised mummy

Back in the car, Ricardo told me we should check out a nearby aqueduct (it was too late for the museums). Apparently, if I drank the water from the aqueduct, I would never leave Nazca and I would be filled with a desire to marry him.

Tempting though the prospect of this was, alongside the likely chance of contracting a stomach bug, I declined. At least we had the English lessons to fall back on.

Chauchilla cemetery - burlesque mummy

I can’t help feeling like describing this experience as a ‘tour’ was a touch misleading. The only service I received for my S50 was a taxi ride (which I’m sure would have been significantly cheaper in a real cab), and, given all my handy tips on speaking English, I came away feeling like, if anything, I should have had more money in my uber-hip traveller’s pouch than I started with.

Chauchilla cemetery - as night sets in

An aside…

To be totally fair to the guys at Inti Wasi, they’ve just purchased the hostel and it may take a while for them to get on their feet. And the car rally thing was a one-off, unavoidable blip. I really enjoyed my stay – especially a cocktail-making lesson from the owner, Micky, and his insistence on driving me into town so I could pick up a takeaway.

Comments

  1. Rebecca says

    November 18, 2012 at 6:00 pm

    Haha nice story, and you are looking very hot right now! x
    Rebecca recently posted..Keralan village cuisine: You can find it here!My Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 20, 2012 at 3:05 pm

      Thank you… Do you like my feather boa? :)

      Reply
  2. Beverley | Pack Your Passport says

    November 19, 2012 at 10:10 am

    Those pictures are actually terrifying??!!!
    Beverley | Pack Your Passport recently posted..Is The Universe Trying To Tell Me Something?My Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 20, 2012 at 3:06 pm

      I know! Imagine being there in the dark with just one Peruvian and all those mummies for company! It was creepy!

      Reply
  3. Shaun says

    November 19, 2012 at 1:17 pm

    LoL! Teaching English in a graveyard! At least all the student’s won’t bug you with questions! (jk)

    Anyway, interesting article. I hate that feeling of getting ripped off but at least you’re looking on the brighter side of the whole experience.

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 20, 2012 at 3:09 pm

      Yeah, I like to think when things go wrong it just makes life more interesting!

      Reply
  4. Edna says

    November 21, 2012 at 8:45 am

    That’s a bit bizarre…but at least you stayed positive about it! Also, I would have FREAKED if I was in that cemetery alone. I spook embarrassingly easily.
    Edna recently posted..I Love My Neighborhood: Galway’s City CentreMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 21, 2012 at 6:47 pm

      Haha. It was a weird experience. Just my luck that the only ´tour´ I end up taking alone is to a dark cemetery!

      Reply
  5. Tom @ Waegook Tom says

    November 26, 2012 at 2:08 am

    EEK! This is terrifying! Also, the tour doesn’t sound too hot…I mean, as if the $50 didn’t include the entry fee! Pffffft!
    Tom @ Waegook Tom recently posted..Six Quirky Korean HabitsMy Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 26, 2012 at 6:09 pm

      I know! I had quite a nice time, but it was a bit ridiculous!

      Reply
  6. Stephanie - The Travel Chica says

    November 29, 2012 at 2:56 am

    Kinda creepy… but interesting.
    Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Help pick my prints! (part 2 and more chances to win)My Profile

    Reply
    • Arianwen Morris says

      November 29, 2012 at 8:30 pm

      Exactly my take on it! Love that they just sit in their little holes and are totally preserved because it’s so arid.

      Reply

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